Olbia is a picture-perfect haven amid the labyrinth of islands and channels that pepper the east Sardinian coast, a ragged etch-a-sketch of watercolour bays and white sand beaches framed by granite headlands. Hiking boots at the ready: Tavolara Island and its vast natural fortress looms in the distance, a monstrous juniper-covered ridge commanding endless views. Refuel with fresh seafood and lashings of nutty olive oil accompanied by a glass of chilled Vermentino in Piazza Regina Margherita, before going off-piste to discover sleepy backstreets and quirky churches.