Tucked away in a fold of idyllic Italian coast, picturesque Portofino is a jet-set haven, where the summer residences of European nobility nestle among olive-covered slopes. Beyond the luxury boutiques and pretty harbourside piazzas, pastel townhouses huddle around the water’s edge and the manicured sculpture gardens of Museo del Parco lead up to the Chiesa di San Giorgio, resting place of the dragon-slaying saint, whose yellow façade looks out towards Etruscan villas and Ligurian lighthouses on the hillside. An hour away lie the five picture-perfect hamlets of Cinque Terre, stacked above the Mediterranean in a tumble of pastel cubes piled precariously on rocky promontories.