Cagliari fans out from the steep slopes of Il Castello, the hilltop citadel built by Pisan rulers in the 13th century, home to the opulent Cathedral of Santa Maria and bloody Elephant Tower, where trophy heads once hung. The seven-kilometre expanse of Poetto Beach unfurls from the Devil’s Saddle (Sella del Diavolo) on St. Elia promontory, past a string of beachfront eateries where legendary Sardinian seafood is enhanced by crisp chilled Vermentino. Across the waves, the irresistible waters of Capo Carbonara Marine Reserve teem with colourful coral fans and kaleidoscopic sea creatures.