Wind into lively alleys once known as the mecca of tobacco. Climb cobbled streets to Kavala’s old town and the Byzantine walled fortress. Wander the scenic walls to the whitewashed lighthouse for a chance to spot Mount Athos. Watch the amphitheatre put on a show at the top of Panagia, then descend into the Imaret complex of domes. Amble the taverna and bar-filled pedestrianised streets around Agios Nikolaos church and visit the atmospheric old hammam and mosaic memorial before routing to the ancient UNESCO city of Philippi. Refresh in waterfalls at the foot of Mount Pangaion, stroll to village watermills, neo-classical mansions, a celebrated winery and stockpile home-made honey. Float to leafy Thasos for coveted snow-white mined marble, archaeological sites and quaint old stone houses in Kastro. Then relax for Turkish coffee with a side of Greek schnapps in this quietly forgotten corner of Greece.