Syros might be just across the water from Mykonos, but this snug island feels a world away from its hedonism. But this is no sleepy backwater: arrive at the capital Ermoupoli, once the mercantile heart of the Aegean, to find an elegant neo-classical enclave humming with real Greek hustle and bustle. Wander wide boulevards sparkling with Cyclades marble to Vaporia, a chic pocket with the best-preserved merchant palaces, the waterfront cafes of Little Venice and the Apollo Theatre, known as La Piccola Scala. Climb to Ano Syros, the scenic hilltop village settled by 13th-century Venetians and crowned by San Giorgio cathedral orseek the island’s fishing villages upon sandy shores and quiet coves cradled by forests.