Spidery tendrils of the coast are dotted with quiet coves and hidden harbours in sublime Saint John, the smallest of the US Virgin Islands. Tune in to island time on Trunk Bay, where turquoise waters caress powder-soft sands; this is what Caribbean dreams are made of. The motherly arms of Virgin Islands National Park embrace two-thirds of the isle, an emerald expanse of protected forest etched with mountain valleys, indigenous rock art and the ruins of old sugar plantations, crisscrossed by a web of scenic hiking trails. Kayak into the knotted mangroves around Hurricane Hole or plunge below the waves at Maho Bay, where turtles and rays sluice through crystal-clear waters.