Funchal’s web of ancient streets spills down from lofty heights. Ride the cable car up to the exotic gardens of Monte Palace at its peak, where peacocks prowl high above the Atlantic. Descend at speed in a wicker sleigh piloted by ‘Carreriros’ elegantly dressed in crisp whites and straw boater hats since the mid-1800s. Swirl a glass of amber-coloured Madeira at a café overlooking chequerboard-tiled Praça do Município and prepare to explore lush could forests crisscrossed by hiking trails and black sand beaches below jungle-covered cliffs.