Arrive in a remote Omani peninsula at its filigreed fingertip pointing at the Strait of Hormuz. Burn up rocky peaks on bikes and off-road vehicles, cruise through spectacular inlets on converted dhows to explore the landscape and flit beneath warm waves with schools of dolphins and tuna of Telegraph Island. Look into Old Town forts, laid-back souks and whitewashed mosques. Pass hidden Bedouin houses, mosques and goats to reach a vast green oasis, then swing up to the summit for cooler climes, fossilised fish and views to behold. Blink and you might miss the richness of this discreet legend.