Portal to the brilliant diversity of the Brazilian Amazon, the small city of Macapá – on the northern banks of the Amazon, at the mouth of the Atlantic – is considered the capital of the middle of the world. Place one foot in each hemisphere at the Marco Zero do Equador, a sundial that marks the equatorial line running through town, and head to Brazil’s largest fort, built in 1782, to understand Macapá’s past. As darkness falls, tune into the nocturnal jungle soundtrack, summoning a singular and seductive sense of place.